AHAs / BHAs

All about AHAs

AHA is one of the signature ingredients in many products. You probably first think of it as an ingredient to soften skin texture and exfoliate dead skin cells. In fact, AHA has many other benefits for the skin beyond exfoliation. Let's look at the different functions of AHA and when it's best to use it.

AH

More precisely, they are called alpha hydroxy acids, and they are a type of water-soluble acid that can be easily extracted from plants. Other acids known as AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, and mandelic acid. Each of these acids has a different molecular structure and size, so they have slightly different functions, but they all have one common function as AHAs.

AHA, what are its effects?

1. Exfoliation and refinement of skin texture

Every day, our skin naturally goes through a process called turnover, where old dead skin cells are shed and new ones are replenished. However, as we age or are constantly exposed to UV rays, this natural function diminishes and old dead skin cells accumulate on the skin's surface without being shed over time, leading to concerns about rough skin texture.

AHA is great for removing old dead skin cells on the skin's surface and refining the skin's texture. It works by breaking down the 'desmosome', which is the sticky substance between keratinocytes, weakening the adhesion between cells and promoting exfoliation. Thanks to this function, AHA is great for transforming uneven, dull skin into smooth skin in a short time.

2. Remodeling

The replacement of old skin cells with new ones is the fundamental mechanism for maintaining beautiful, healthy skin. AHA has a remodeling effect that reorganizes the skin from both natural aging and premature aging caused by UV exposure. It helps increase the turnover rate of skin cells that have slowed down and speeds it up again so that it can be replenished with new skin cells.

3. Improving barrier function

If you’ve tried products containing AHAs, you’ve probably experienced a slight tingling sensation. This is a natural occurrence as smaller AHA molecules are absorbed into the skin and begin to work. You may be concerned that the tingling sensation could be irritating or damaging to the skin, but it actually strengthens the skin’s barrier.

Previous studies have shown that consistent use of AHA on sun-damaged and aging skin on a regular basis improves dryness and improves barrier function. In addition, it has been shown to effectively address issues related to sun-damaged and aging skin without significant side effects. As a result, AHA can be considered a suitable ingredient even for skin with poor barrier function.

4. Improving pores and acne

There are various factors for pore problems, but clogged pores are at the heart of most pore-related problems. If the pores are not open enough, sebum cannot drain properly, which can lead to the formation of blackheads or whiteheads, and in severe cases, acne can also occur.

AHA not only helps open these pores so that sebum and impurities can be expelled in a timely manner, but also has the effect of reducing pore size. It is one of the most recommended ingredients for acne-prone skin, as it can not only relieve various forms of acne, but also help manage marks.

5. Wrinkle reduction and improvement of elasticity

AHAs are beneficial not only on the surface of the skin, but also deep within the skin. While it focuses on managing skin texture and pores on the surface, it helps build skin components within the skin.

A study has shown that regular use of AHA on the skin increases the amount of hyaluronic acid and collagen in the skin, reduces wrinkles and improves elasticity. This effect appears to be better than the changes observed in skin not treated with AHA, indicating that AHA is effective in addressing skin aging issues.

6. Alleviation of pigmentation

The inevitable ultraviolet rays often stimulate our skin to produce an excessive amount of melanin pigment, leading to unwanted hyperpigmentation problems such as melasma and freckles on the skin surface.

While you may think that pigmentation issues can only be addressed with brightening ingredients like vitamin C or niacinamide, AHAs are actually excellent at improving pigmentation. Consistent use of AHAs can help lighten pigmented areas of concern and brighten the skin.

AHA, isn't that annoying?

AHA has proven to be an excellent ingredient through extensive research, demonstrating both effectiveness and safety over a long period of time. Despite the possibility of slight irritation, it has been popular for its remarkable effectiveness. Although the smaller AHA molecules are absorbed into the skin and act, causing temporary irritation, it is not harmful to the skin, which is why it can be recommended for various skin problems.

If you are starting out with AHAs, it is a good idea to start with products that contain low concentrations first to see how they work on your skin, then gradually try products with higher concentrations. Even low concentration products can be beneficial with regular use, so start your skincare routine gently.

AHA, tips for effective use

- AHA can be used in a personal skincare routine whether morning or evening. However, some high-concentration AHA products can be potent, so it is recommended to use them at night, as exposure to external irritants during the day may be higher.

- Although regular use of AHA is beneficial, it is not recommended to use multiple AHA products at the same time. If you have multiple AHA products, we recommend alternating between them at different times.

- Even if it is an AHA product, usage may vary depending on the AHA concentration, pH level, and formulation. So it is best to follow the product's instructions for use.

- If you use AHA, it is recommended to use sunscreen carefully for optimal results. Be sure to apply sunscreen before sun exposure.

AHA and BHA, what's the difference?

The correct name for BHA is beta-hydroxy acid. Similar to AHA in naming, BHA shares a similar structure. Therefore, they are known to have similar beneficial effects on the skin. However, there are also distinct differences between them.

When comparing the effectiveness of each on the skin's surface, water-soluble AHA is primarily responsible for removing dead skin cells and opening clogged pores, while oil-soluble BHA has excellent effectiveness in cleansing pores by removing sebum and impurities along with dead skin cells. Ultimately, both ingredients are excellent for immediately addressing visible issues with dead skin cells or pores.

AHA and BHA, how do we use them?

If you are considering between AHA and BHA, it is recommended to consider your skin type and primary skin concerns before making a decision. In general, AHA is suitable for dry skin types with concerns about dull skin and uneven texture, or for those with less concerns about sebum and pores. On the other hand, BHA is beneficial for oily skin with concerns about texture or pores, as well as for acne-prone skin.

Of course, you don't have to use AHA and BHA separately. They can be used together, and many studies suggest that using both ingredients together can have beneficial effects on the skin. If you have multiple concerns or want overall control, it's a good idea to try them together.